A short intro to GSM (Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre) blends in California. Why they’re more important than you probably think:
Hi guys. Mark Aselstine with Uncorked Ventures.
First, happy Monday. Secondly, I hope everybody on the East Coast, especially in New York City, is going to survive what everyone seems to be calling The Storm of the Century.
Wine club shipments have been delayed a couple days. They’re going to go out in the next day or two, especially if you’re on the East Coast. I didn’t want the wine sitting somewhere in the Midwest or on the East Coast where it was going to show up to you like a wine Popsicle, so we avoided that. The wine will go out today or tomorrow.
In any case I did want to take a couple minutes then to talk about something that I see happening more and more within the wine industry. When you look at kind of traditional France, Bordeaux and Burgundy you see single varietal wines, or at least in parts of Bordeaux it’s like that. Burgundy, especially with Pinot Noir, it’s like that. Napa has kind of made a name for itself with both kind of single vineyard or single source Chardonnay, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon. But there’s this whole wider wine industry that’s starting to turn more toward blends and there’s a couple reasons for that. First, if you don’t own your own vineyard you’re constantly sourcing stuff from multiple vineyards. It’s a heck of a lot easier to have more of a consistent style if you’re sourcing from multiple vineyards and blending it together yourself as opposed to sourcing a single vineyard and saying, you know, we’ve got this great example of a cool climate Russian River Valley Saralee’s Vineyard Grenache, only to see Saralee’s Vineyard then sell the Grenache to a larger winery after you’ve done it for a few years and you’re basically stuck at zero. We saw that happen to a few folks that we know pretty well.
In any case one of the natural offshoots, if you can’t own a vineyard in Napa or Sonoma and you are left a little bit more on the periphery of the wine industry, you may find yourself growing Rhone varietals. As we’ve talked about numerous times, in this space at least, Syrah is a difficult sell in California and elsewhere, so you’re probably looking at a GSM blend as a way to present your label, your style, and get the wine out there without having to fight the whole consumer sentiment that “I don’t like Syrah.” Here’s a couple great examples. First [inaudible 00:02:07] this is a GSM blend from down in Paso Robles. According to the bottom of the bottle 48% Grenache, 29% Syrah, 2% Mourvedre. The Mourvedre, if you’re familiar, it’s traditionally a blending grape in the Rhone. It’s used the same way here in California. In essence the wine maker puts that in for only one purpose so it is a little chalky and it’s thick and syrupy, but more than anything else the biggest thing about Mourvedre is that it’s dark purple in color. It’s one of the darkest, non-black skin grapes that you’re going to find. That’s why they use it, because it darkens everything up a little bit. Fore Family Vineyards, it’s another good example of the GSM. I don’t think they even have the percentages here listed, which is something that frankly I don’t mind. If you’re saying it’s a GSM then it just kind of is what it is, whatever the percentage is. It can change from year to year. Fore Family is based up in Lake County. It’s kind of one of the preeminent growers up there in Lake County. I think they’re, kind of, other than an estate wine program that’s starting to take steps forward that kind of commensurate with the quality of wines that are being produced by others with their fruit. I think that’s what you’re starting to see. If you’re a wine region on the periphery of what thought of as the classic wine regions in California and also in France, [inaudible 00:03:29] France in Languedoc where they’ve kind of adopted GSM blends as one of the things that they do, and they do quite well. You’re going to see that continuing more and more. I would be frankly quite surprised if there wasn’t another … there’s this whole other 46 movement and that’s the wine producing states in the United States that in essence are not California, Oregon, Washington, the three we cover, and not New York because you have New York City and you don’t have to try very hard. I’d be surprised if one or two of those didn’t focus on Syrah or at least on GSM to try to see what they could get in the market place with it. These are kind of bold, intense wines and that’s something that people are gravitating toward. If you look at the success of Cabernet in the market place you can see why somebody would think well if Cabernet does so well and Syrah does so poorly, maybe we can blend to something and get it closer to Cabernet, even if I don’t have grapes from a Cabernet vineyard that would lead itself to $125 wine.
In any case, Mark Aselstine, Uncorked Ventures. I hope everybody is staying warm. I almost hesitate to admit that we’re sitting at close to 70 degrees here in the Bay Area and everybody is feeling quite good about that.
Hope everybody is doing well. Thanks again.