Mark Aselstine
January 8, 2012 | Mark Aselstine

5 Wine Topics I’m Sick of Talking About, but Stand No Chance of Going Away


5) Spanish wines are the next big thing. No wait, Portugese wines are the next big thing. Wait, Italian wines are the next big thing. New Zealand. South Africa. Argentina. Chile. Etc Etc. The wine industry is growing world wide, here is hoping that regions everywhere improve the quality and the value of their offerings while keeping some sort of local character to their wines.

4) Robert Parker and his retirement from current California vintages. The first scores from Antonio Galloni are out and they are, not surprisingly, more of the same. Did anyone really expect a dramatic departure from Wine Advocate which has become the most trusted name in wine reviews?

3) The Other 46. I’m still wondering exactly how New York has weaseled its way into a grouping with California, Oregon and Washington. Despite several great examples to the contrary, I just haven’t seen the consistent quality from New York state yet-at least on the level produced consistently on the west coast. Great wines are being produced to be sure, but overall is the quality comparable? Can we just admit that great wine can be made anywhere and move on? New Mexico makes a great sparkeling wine lineup. Arizona is trying. Michigan is working hard. Virginia might be the best hope for the east coast. Texas and Texans love their own and the region outside of Austin is surprisingly temperate. 40 years ago Pinot Noir in Oregon sounded like a stupid idea, haven’t we learned anything? The wine industry is incredibly adaptable and more quality wine regions are a good thing, let’s let them all develop without trying to compare them all the time.

2) Cork versus artificial cork versus screw tops. I get it. Honestly I do. Artifiical cork doesn’t spoil any bottles, but it might not age as well and it definitely removes some of the romance from wine. Screw tops are easily and much more efficient for restaurants, bartenders love them as it saves at least 45 seconds per opening. For a busy restaurant in a major city, that could save you thousands of dollars per year. I think everyone in the industry knows all of this already-what’s the point in continuing the discussion if you don’t stand a chance of changing anyone’s mind? By the way, those natural cork ads as you enter wine country across the world talking about the environment seem like a winning proposition for an industry dependent on wine sales at $50 and above, exactly the market where people get really environmentally conscious.

1) Low alcohol content wines are better than high alcohol content wines. Heck, I’ve got to hand it to the French wine industry, they’ve turned the entire conversation on its head. No longer does it matter if a wine is balanced, or if you can tell the alcohol level in a wine. All that matters is that legally mandated alcohol level on the front of the bottle. For an industry that has fought so vehemently against scores, it’s a little odd don’t you think? I’m sick of the conversation because we’re missing the point. Warmer climates are going to produce higher alcohol wines. That’s just a fact. What isn’t a fact though is that all higher alcohol wines are out of balance. I could line up 10 wines we’ve shipped over the past two years that hit 14% or higher in alcohol and you’d have no idea because they are well made and the alcohol content is completely in balance with the fruit in the wine.


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